When discussing Oriental cinematic fashion icons, Maggie Cheung inevitably takes centre stage. Her 23 dazzling cheongsam (qipao) appearances in In the Mood for Love remain one of the most iconic fashion chapters in global film history. Yet her qipao journey did not begin in 1960s Hong Kong—it started in 1930s Shanghai with Center Stage (Ruan Lingyu). This article retraces Maggie Cheung’s cinematic cheongsam evolution, exploring how two different eras shaped distinct styles, and how audiences today can adapt this timeless garment into modern Australian life.
The Elegiac Dream of the 1930s — Center Stage and the Shanghai Cheongsam
1930s Shanghai: Cross-Cultural Bloom
The 1930s marked Shanghai’s golden age, when the city was a cosmopolitan hub where East met West. Neon lights illuminated dance halls, while jazz spilled from cabarets. Beneath this glamour, however, a subtle transformation was underway: women were stepping into public life with a new sense of independence. Educated, modern “new women” began appearing in films, magazines, and advertisements, shaping a new standard of elegance.
Cheongsam became the vessel of this cultural shift. Borrowing tailoring techniques from Western dress while retaining traditional Chinese aesthetics, it embodied both continuity and change. The silhouette was modest yet progressive, striking a delicate balance between tradition and modern identity.
1930s Cheongsam Characteristics
- Cut and Shape: Cheongsams of this era tended to be slightly loose, with a straight drape. They emphasised smooth, gentle lines rather than curves, echoing the restrained and refined mood of the time.
- Neckline and Sleeves: High mandarin collars were the norm, paired with long or mid-length sleeves. This choice conveyed dignity, composure, and respectability.
- Length and Slit: Hemlines typically extended below the knee, with low slits that adhered to social conventions of propriety. Movement was subtle rather than dramatic.
- Fabric and Patterns: Silk and satin dominated, adorned with floral motifs, art deco-inspired prints, and muted colours. These fabrics carried an understated charm that reflected the era’s refinement.
Maggie Cheung as Ruan Lingyu
In Center Stage (1992), Maggie Cheung plays the legendary silent film actress Ruan Lingyu, whose life ended tragically at the age of 24. The cheongsam becomes more than costume—it mirrors Ruan’s fate.
Cheung’s wardrobe in the film is marked by soft fabrics and muted palettes, enveloping her in a melancholic grace. The modest tailoring and subdued patterns symbolise both vulnerability and resilience. As Ruan battles public scrutiny and personal anguish, her cheongsam seems to absorb her sorrow, its flowing silhouette evoking fragility yet perseverance. Through this, Cheung bridges history and cinema, reviving the 1930s aura of Shanghai and its women caught between modernity and tradition.
The Restrained Desire of the 1960s — In the Mood for Love and the Hong Kong Cheongsam Revolution
1960s Hong Kong: Tension of Modern and Traditional
By the 1960s, Hong Kong was a bustling metropolis at the crossroads of Chinese heritage and colonial modernity. Apartments were cramped, social codes rigid, and emotions often repressed beneath polished appearances. In this urban atmosphere, the cheongsam underwent a radical transformation, reflecting both the glamour of the era and the hidden turbulence beneath.
The cheongsam evolved into a highly stylised form, signalling status, sensuality, and modern femininity. It was no longer just attire—it became a coded language of desire and decorum.
1960s Cheongsam Characteristics
- Cut and Shape: The silhouette became body-conscious, thanks to three-dimensional tailoring that sculpted the bust, waist, and hips into a sinuous S-curve. Each movement turned the wearer into a living sculpture.
- Neckline and Sleeves: The high mandarin collar remained, but sleeveless styles grew in popularity, offering a daring exposure of arms while maintaining modesty at the neckline.
- Length and Slit: Hemlines often reached the ankle, while high side slits introduced a sensual rhythm, revealing glimpses of leg with every step. The slit transformed from a practical detail into an aesthetic expression of allure.
- Fabric and Patterns: Luxurious fabrics—lace, jacquard, glossy satin—brought shimmer to the screen. Prints grew bolder, featuring geometric designs and oversized florals. The visual drama of these textiles matched the intensity of inner emotions.
Maggie Cheung as Su Li-zhen
In Wong Kar-wai’s In the Mood for Love (2000), Maggie Cheung’s portrayal of Su Li-zhen is inseparable from her wardrobe. Each cheongsam is a layer of her psychological landscape.
The fitted silhouettes, shimmering fabrics, and striking colours externalise Su’s inner conflict—her loneliness, restraint, and unspoken passion. Every time she descends a stairwell or passes through a narrow corridor, her cheongsam appears to confine her body as tightly as her emotions. The dresses become metaphors for suppressed desire, their beauty doubled by their constriction.
The 23 cheongsams worn in the film not only cemented Cheung’s place as a fashion icon but also redefined the cheongsam as a global symbol of cinematic style. Through Su Li-zhen, the cheongsam spoke simultaneously of elegance, sadness, and longing.
From Screen to Street: Bringing the Cheongsam into Modern Australian Life
While the cheongsam carries rich cultural and historical meaning, it is far from a relic. Today, Australian audiences can reinterpret this garment by blending its heritage with contemporary lifestyle needs. The key is to adapt the symbolic features of each era into versatile fashion statements.
Comparing the Two Eras
- 1930s Style: Defined by restraint, modesty, and understated grace. Ideal for those seeking quiet elegance and subtle beauty.
- 1960s Style: Defined by sensuality, boldness, and emotional intensity. Perfect for those wishing to make a striking impression.
Both styles emphasise different facets of femininity—together, they illustrate the cheongsam’s remarkable adaptability.
Practical Styling Guide for Australia
1. Daily Casual Wear
Channel the 1930s understated charm. Opt for a soft, plain cheongsam in cotton or linen. Pair it with a denim jacket, white sneakers, and a straw tote. This fusion balances Eastern heritage with laid-back Australian weekend style.
2. Work and Commuting
For professional settings, choose a cheongsam with clean lines and minimal prints. Neutral colours—navy, grey, or beige—blend seamlessly with office attire. Add a casual blazer or a knitted cardigan, and you achieve a look that respects tradition while staying workplace appropriate.
3. Evening Parties and Formal Events
Invoke the glamour of the 1960s. A figure-hugging satin cheongsam in deep red or emerald instantly commands attention. Pair it with high heels, a sleek clutch, and understated jewellery. This transforms the cheongsam into an evening gown that competes with Western formalwear while offering unique cultural elegance.
The Eternal Allure of the Cheongsam
From Center Stage to In the Mood for Love, Maggie Cheung defined two archetypes of Oriental beauty through the cheongsam: the gentle resilience of Ruan Lingyu and the smouldering restraint of Su Li-zhen. These roles show that the cheongsam is not merely fabric stitched into shape; it is a vessel of memory, art, and identity.
For modern audiences, the cheongsam is both fashion and cultural dialogue. It invites reinterpretation, whether on the silver screen or the streets of Sydney and Melbourne. Wearing a cheongsam today is more than paying homage to the past—it is carrying forward a tradition that continues to evolve.
The cheongsam endures because it speaks to something universal: the tension between concealment and revelation, tradition and modernity, longing and fulfilment. Just as Maggie Cheung gave us two unforgettable portrayals, each of us can find within the cheongsam a style that resonates personally.
The cheongsam is eternal, its charm unfading—an icon of beauty that belongs to every era.