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    Ancient Mid-Autumn Elegance: Customs, Rituals, and the Splendor of Festive Attire

    在 2025年9月19日
    When the eighth month of the lunar calendar arrives, the northern hemisphere is filled with the fragrance of osmanthus blossoms and the deepening hues of autumn. On the other side of the globe, however, in the southern hemisphere of Australia, spring’s warmth and renewal set the scene. The Mid-Autumn Festival here may not bring cool winds and falling leaves, but it still offers moonlit skies, fragrant backyard barbecues, and—most importantly—the same brilliant full moon shared by people across time and space. Seasons may differ, but the yearning for reunion and the cultural memory woven into this ancient festival remain timeless.
    As we enjoy mooncakes and gaze at the moon, one question arises: before the age of smartphones and internet, how did people in ancient times celebrate Mid-Autumn? Did they wear special attire, follow refined rituals, and infuse the festival with poetry and ceremony? Let’s journey back to the Tang, Song, Ming, and Qing dynasties to uncover these traditions—especially the intricate world of clothing and adornment—and learn how we might carry this sense of ritual into our own modern celebrations, even here in Australia.
    Woman in traditional Hanfu dress with red and blue embroidery

    Part I: Customs of the Mid-Autumn Festival

    Mooncakes: From Ritual Offering to Symbol of Reunion

    Today, mooncakes are synonymous with Mid-Autumn, yet their story is much older. Their origin lies in ritual offerings during the autumn equinox. By the Tang dynasty, references to eating “hu bing” (barbarian cakes) appear, hinting at an early form of mooncakes. In the bustling Song dynasty, when commerce and urban life flourished, poets immortalized them with lines like “small cakes tasting like the moon, filled with syrup and sweetness.” It was in the Ming dynasty, however, that mooncakes became firmly established as the official food of Mid-Autumn, symbolizing reunion and completeness.
    Paintings such as the Ming-era Sacrificing to the Moon show families dressed in fine garments, men in long robes and women in horse-face skirts, gathered before a table of round mooncakes and seasonal fruits to honor the moon.

    Moon Gazing: A Refined Tradition

    Moon gazing traces back as far as the Zhou dynasty’s moon-worship rituals. By the Tang dynasty, it had evolved into a beloved pastime among scholars. In the Song dynasty, it reached its peak: households, scholars, and commoners alike took to terraces, gardens, and riverbanks to admire the luminous full moon. The Southern Song painter Ma Yuan’s Drinking Under the Moon illustrates two friends in wide-sleeved robes, cups in hand, savoring the moonlight while attended by a servant boy.
    By the Ming dynasty, moon gazing had become widespread, with women in layered skirts and embroidered jackets strolling courtyards under lantern-lit skies.

    Young woman in elegant Hanfu outfit with light blue floral skirt and long flowing cardigan holding a folding fan

    Reunion Banquets: The Heart of the Festival

    Known as the “Festival of Reunion,” Mid-Autumn was inseparable from the family banquet. Records suggest that even in the Han dynasty, special occasions included communal feasts and gatherings for elders. In the Song and especially during the Ming and Qing dynasties, this evolved into the quintessential “family reunion dinner.” Food, conversation, and togetherness embodied the essence of the full moon itself: round, complete, and harmonious.

    Drinking Osmanthus Wine

    Osmanthus blossoms, with their golden hue and sweet fragrance, became associated with good fortune and prosperity. The tradition of drinking osmanthus-infused wine dates back to the Warring States period, with poets like Qu Yuan mentioning it in verses. By the Qing dynasty, drinking osmanthus wine on Mid-Autumn night was commonplace, marking a toast to health and harmony.

    Playing with the “Rabbit Lord”

    In Beijing during the Ming and Qing dynasties, children played with clay figurines called “Rabbit Lord,” inspired by the Moon Rabbit of legend. Paintings such as Auspicious Mid-Autumn Scene show women in bright Han Chinese attire guiding children as they made offerings and played with these rabbit-shaped toys.
    Woman wearing traditional yellow Hanfu with embroidered patterns, styled with floral hair ornaments and holding a round fan

    Part II: The Splendor of Mid-Autumn Attire

    While food, rituals, and moon gazing formed the cultural backbone of Mid-Autumn, clothing was the visual poetry of the festival. Garments embroidered with seasonal motifs—rabbits, osmanthus, moon disks—turned the body into a living canvas of symbolism. The attire worn during Mid-Autumn was not simply decorative but infused with meaning, embodying themes of reunion, prosperity, and celestial beauty.

    Festival Garments vs. Daily Wear

    Unlike everyday attire, which was practical and restrained, festival clothing emphasized elegance, symbolism, and occasion. Mid-Autumn outfits often used richer fabrics, brighter colors, and elaborate embroidery. Women’s skirts were longer and layered, men’s robes more structured, and accessories were carefully chosen to echo the imagery of the full moon.

    Dynasty-by-Dynasty Evolution of Mid-Autumn Attire

    Tang Dynasty: Grandeur and Flowing Silhouettes

    The Tang dynasty was known for its cosmopolitan openness and bold aesthetics. Women wore flowing robes with wide sleeves, often layered in vibrant colors like vermilion, emerald, or gold, reflecting the brightness of the moon. Embroidery included celestial motifs—stars, moons, rabbits—stitched into silk. Men wore long scholar robes and tall hats, often gathering in gardens to recite poetry under the moon.

    Song Dynasty: Refined and Understated Elegance

    The Song dynasty shifted toward more subdued beauty. Women’s clothing featured lighter fabrics, softer hues, and narrower sleeves. Embroidery often depicted delicate osmanthus blossoms or subtle cloud patterns. The focus was on grace rather than grandeur, mirroring the dynasty’s appreciation for restrained aesthetics and philosophical contemplation of the moon.

    Ming Dynasty: Structure and Symbolism

    The Ming dynasty revived traditional Han styles with structured robes and distinctive “horse-face skirts” for women. Paintings from this era depict men in round-collared robes and women in embroidered jackets with motifs like the Moon Rabbit. Official attire sometimes incorporated “rank badges” with circular or square embroidery of rabbits, phoenixes, and osmanthus branches, aligning seasonal imagery with status.

    Qing Dynasty: Drama and Extravagance

    While Manchu styles dominated court attire, Han Chinese theatrical and festival garments flourished in popular culture. One striking example is the August Flower God Robe from the Guangxu era, embroidered with countless white rabbits leaping among osmanthus blossoms, bordered with gourds and auspicious fruits. This robe, though intended for performance, represents the peak of seasonal symbolism.

    Elegant woman in traditional Hanfu with wide embroidered sleeves and floral patterned skirt, standing under wisteria backdrop

    Symbolism in Embroidery and Patterns

    Mid-Autumn attire was rich with motifs:

    • Moon Rabbit and Osmanthus Tree: Represented immortality, prosperity, and reunion.
    • Chang’e and Celestial Maidens: Embroidered on women’s robes, symbolizing beauty and eternal youth.
    • Pomegranates and Gourds: With their many seeds, they symbolized fertility and family continuity.
    • Clouds Encircling the Moon: Suggested good fortune and a harmonious atmosphere.
    • Phoenixes and Luan Birds: Symbolized marital harmony and family bliss, fitting for a reunion festival.

    Handcrafted round silk fan with embroidered moon, osmanthus blossoms, and jade rabbits, symbolizing Mid-Autumn Festival traditions

    Accessories and Hairstyles

    Mid-Autumn wasn’t complete without accessories:

    • Hairpins and Headpieces: Crafted in shapes of osmanthus blossoms, jade rabbits, or lanterns.
    • “Holding the Moon in Hand” Ornaments: Inspired by Tang poetry, where delicate gold-and-silver pins mimicked scooping the moon’s reflection.
    • Seasonal Jewelry: Jade pendants shaped like fruits, gourds, or small lanterns adorned women’s waists or necklines.
    • Hairstyles: Women styled elaborate buns adorned with seasonal flowers or rabbit ornaments, creating a festive aura.

    Woman wearing a black embroidered garment with her hair styled in a bun, adorned with a traditional lantern-shaped gold hairpin decorated with pearls and tassels

    Colors and Fabrics of the Season

    Mid-Autumn festival attire embraced the richness of silk, brocade, and satin. Golden yellows symbolized osmanthus blossoms; deep purples represented dignity and celestial themes; reds symbolized joy and prosperity. These hues, combined with fine fabrics, allowed festival garments to shine like the moon itself.

    Wearing Mid-Autumn Traditions Today

    For those celebrating in modern Australia, these ancient inspirations can be revived. Wearing hanfu for family gatherings or moon-viewing parties adds elegance and authenticity. Even if full traditional attire isn’t possible, small details—such as hairpins with floral motifs, embroidered scarves with moon patterns, or jade jewelry—bring echoes of history into today’s festival.

    Conclusion: A Modern Ritual with Ancient Roots

    From mooncakes to osmanthus wine, from rabbit figurines to embroidered robes, the Mid-Autumn Festival was a feast of senses, meanings, and rituals. Among these, clothing held a special place: garments became moving canvases of seasonal imagery, carrying prayers for reunion, prosperity, and harmony.
    Today, whether you are in China, Australia, or anywhere else in the world, celebrating Mid-Autumn with even a touch of traditional attire reconnects you with this centuries-old heritage. Slip into a robe, pin an osmanthus-shaped accessory in your hair, or simply pause to admire the full moon in mindful silence.
    Because in the end, the essence of Mid-Autumn is not only in the food or customs—it is in the enduring elegance of how we choose to celebrate reunion, beauty, and life itself.

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