The 24 Solar Terms were established by ancient Chinese scholars to track the sun’s movement across the zodiac. These terms divide the year into different climatic phases, which were crucial for agricultural planning. Each solar term lasts around 15 days, and they govern not only farming activities but also societal behaviors, including dress codes, diet, and festivals.
The Solar Terms are categorized into the four seasons—Spring, Summer, Autumn, and Winter—each containing six terms that represent different climatic changes. By understanding the Solar Terms, we can see how Hanfu fashion responds to the needs of the changing seasons. Let’s dive into how to dress in Hanfu for each of the 24 Solar Terms, keeping both tradition and the weather in mind.
Spring
Spring is a time of renewal and growth, as the earth comes alive after the cold winter months. The temperatures begin to warm, but it can still be a bit chilly, especially in early Spring. Hanfu clothing for this season should reflect the vibrancy of nature awakening, yet still provide warmth during transitional weather.
1. Beginning of Spring
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Style: During the Lì Chūn period, Hanfu outfits are light yet layered. A hanfu robe or ruqun (a two-piece outfit with a top and skirt) is ideal for this time. The ruqun consists of a loose, flowing top paired with a wide waistband skirt, offering both comfort and ease.
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Fabric: Choose silk or cotton, as these materials are breathable yet provide some warmth. Avoid heavy fabrics.
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Colors: Soft greens, light pinks, and gentle yellows reflect the budding plants and flowers of Spring.
2. Rain Water
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Style: As rain begins to fall more frequently during Yǔ Shuǐ, opt for a gongfu robe or a layered jacket to keep warm while remaining agile in the rain.
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Fabric: Lightweight wool or a thin cotton blend can be used for this time, keeping the body warm without becoming too hot.
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Colors: Deep blues, light greens, and greyish blues can symbolize the rainwater that nurtures nature.
3. Insects Awaken
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Style: This time of year calls for more layered clothing, such as long-sleeve robes and mantou (a jacket worn over the top). As it starts to get warmer, a simple dui xiu (double-layered robes) would suffice for comfort and style.
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Fabric: Light linen or silk should be worn for flexibility and comfort.
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Colors: Bright greens, fresh browns, and golden hues symbolize new life and the awakening of nature.
4. Spring Equinox
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Style: The Chūn Fēn period calls for full-sleeved robes like the daopao (a long, flowing robe). The weather during this time is still cool, so thick fabrics like cotton or light wool should be prioritized.
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Fabric: Choose warm yet breathable cotton for comfort. Layer with light wool for added warmth.
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Colors: Pastel shades such as light lavender, pale yellow, and mint green fit well with the season.
5. Clear and Bright
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Style: As Spring reaches its peak, Hanfu attire can be lighter and more colorful. Opt for qun skirts and ruqun with vibrant hues.
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Fabric: Fabrics such as linen and light silk work well for clear weather.
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Colors: Light pastels and flower-inspired colors like peach, cherry blossom pink, and soft greens mirror the vibrant, blossoming Spring.
6. Grain Rain
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Style: Gǔ Yǔ marks the transition into warmer days, so Hanfu outfits become lighter. A changshan (a long robe) with a thin mantou jacket is suitable.
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Fabric: Light silk or cotton is perfect for this time as the temperatures warm up.
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Colors: Earth tones and deep greens, browns, and shades of light yellow reflect the agricultural importance of this period.
Summer
Summer brings warmth and plenty of sunlight, and Hanfu attire should be cool and breathable. The clothing choices for summer represent both practicality and elegance.
1. Beginning of Summer
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Style: During Lì Xià, Hanfu styles tend to be shorter. A qífu (a short tunic-like top) paired with wide, airy skirts is perfect.
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Fabric: Linen and light silk are breathable and comfortable.
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Colors: Vivid yellows, bright oranges, and floral reds symbolize the heat of the season.
2. Grain Full
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Style: As Summer hits full force, wear a xiashan (short robes) with open cuffs and short sleeves.
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Fabric: Light linen or cotton for breathability and comfort.
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Colors: Bold colors like deep red, vivid yellow, and bright orange represent the fullness of the season.
3. Summer Solstice
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Style: Xià Zhì is the peak of summer heat, so the Hanfu outfit should be very light, such as sleeveless robes or simple tunic-style wear.
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Fabric: Thin silk and bamboo fabric are ideal for high heat, as they allow airflow.
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Colors: Bright blues, whites, and yellows symbolize the sun and heat.
4. Minor Heat
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Style: Loose changshan and short mantou jackets are suitable as temperatures rise but are not yet oppressive.
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Fabric: Soft, breathable cotton or linen to absorb sweat.
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Colors: Lighter shades such as off-white, pale yellow, and soft green are perfect for this season.
5. Major Heat
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Style: Dà Shǔ brings intense heat, so wear simple blouses or half-sleeve robes to stay cool. A lightweight ruqun can be paired with chiffon or silk for extra comfort.
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Fabric: Cotton and silk are breathable options to keep the body cool.
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Colors: Light and cool colors like pale blue, white, and soft greens represent the cooling breeze of summer.
6. Start of Autumn
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Style: Autumn brings cooler temperatures. Transition into long-sleeve robes with flowy skirts to keep warm in the evening.
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Fabric: Silk and light wool can add some warmth without being too heavy.
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Colors: Earthy oranges, browns, and deep greens symbolize the harvest season ahead.
Autumn
Autumn is a season of harvest and cool winds, where the air starts to crisp and the colors of nature shift towards earthier tones. As temperatures drop, Hanfu attire becomes a little heavier and more layered. It's time to transition into longer sleeves and thicker fabrics.
1. End of Heat
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Style: During Chǔ Shǔ, the weather becomes cooler. Opt for a long-sleeved ruqun with a mantou jacket for added warmth. You may also choose a gongfu robe (a robe with an elegant fit) for formal events.
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Fabric: Cotton or silk works well for maintaining comfort in mild temperatures.
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Colors: Rich golden yellows and warm browns, which evoke the harvest time, are ideal colors for this period.
2. Autumn Equinox
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Style: During the Qiū Fēn, days and nights are balanced. Wear a hanfu with long sleeves and layer it with a simple jacket for extra warmth. The changshan (long robes) or ruqun (skirt with a top) will also work well.
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Fabric: You can transition into wool or thick cotton, which provide the warmth needed as the air cools.
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Colors: Earthy greens, vibrant reds, and shades of amber symbolize the rich harvest and cooler temperatures.
3. White Dew
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Style: As temperatures continue to drop, wear long robes with mantou jackets and a qun (skirt). This combination allows for a full range of movement while keeping warm.
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Fabric: Wool, silk, and thick cotton fabrics work well for this cool yet not freezing period.
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Colors: Darker autumn colors, such as deep maroon, russet, and forest green, reflect the harvest and cooler, mistier mornings.
4. Cold Dew
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Style: The weather gets colder as Hán Lù arrives, so long, closed-neck robes like daopao or shenyi (robe-style attire) are perfect. Pairing a mantou jacket over your hanfu offers warmth for both indoors and outdoors.
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Fabric: Wool or thick silk is great for layering during this time.
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Colors: Darker tones such as deep maroons, muted greens, and purples symbolize the onset of coldness and the beauty of the harvest.
5. Frost’s Descent
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Style: The first frost begins during Shuāng Jiàng, so Hanfu clothing becomes much heavier. You can opt for thick layers, including a long coat or fur-lined robes. Long, knitted mantou or a cloak would be ideal to prepare for the colder weather.
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Fabric: Fabrics like heavy wool or cashmere are excellent choices for added warmth.
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Colors: Autumnal browns, dark reds, and dark greens are perfect for this cooler period, reflecting the natural world around you.
6. Winter Begins
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Style: Lì Dōng marks the start of winter, so Hanfu clothing shifts to even heavier fabrics. A long-sleeve ruqun paired with a woolen jacket or changshan will be sufficient to battle the chill.
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Fabric: Choose thick wool, felt, or heavy silk for warmth.
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Colors: Deep reds, browns, dark blue, and shades of purple reflect the cold and strong winds associated with this season.
Winter
Winter in China is characterized by freezing cold temperatures and the stillness of nature. Hanfu attire becomes fully layered and warm, embracing heavier materials, often with additional accessories like scarves, shawls, and fur trims to provide maximum protection against the cold.
1. Minor Snow
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Style: As temperatures drop during Xiǎo Xuě, wear thick long-sleeve robes like the daopao (long robe) with a layered mantou jacket. You can pair this with fur-lined mantou for added insulation.
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Fabric: Thick wool or cashmere should be used to keep warm, along with flannel or fleece-lined inner layers.
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Colors: Darker shades like deep blues, winter whites, and maroon are appropriate for this chilly period, reflecting the winter season.
2. Great Snow
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Style: The snow deepens during Dà Xuě, so you will need heavier layers like padded jackets or long winter hanfu robes. The addition of fur collars or shawls will keep you extra warm.
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Fabric: Heavy wool or down feather-lined robes are the best options for extreme cold.
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Colors: Cool shades of deep blue, icy white, and silver mimic the snow and frost-covered environment.
3. Winter Solstice
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Style: The Dōng Zhì is the coldest period of the year, so wear your heaviest daopao, heavy woolen robes, and mantou jackets. Layering is key to staying warm. You can even add fur trims or insulated hoods to your Hanfu attire.
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Fabric: Choose heavy, insulated fabrics like wool, flannel, or down.
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Colors: Dark colors such as black, navy, or deep plum resonate with the longest nights of the year, evoking warmth and comfort.
4. Minor Cold
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Style: As winter continues, Xiǎo Hán calls for thick, layered clothing such as double-layered ruqun or long-sleeve robes. You can also wear high-neck attire to protect your body from the cold air.
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Fabric: Choose heavy wool or down-lined fabrics for warmth.
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Colors: Deep maroon, dark gold, and purple reflect the cold but also celebrate the festive season leading to Chinese New Year.
5. Major Cold
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Style: The Dà Hán period is the peak of winter, where it is important to wear thick winter robes with fur-lined accents or heavily layered attire. A long coat or changshan with a mantou jacket is ideal to keep warm.
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Fabric: Down feather coats, flannel-lined garments, and heavy wool are essential.
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Colors: Darker shades like deep navy, black, and earthy browns work well during this time, as it represents the coldest period of the year.
6. End of Winter
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Style: The last of winter, Lì Chūn, brings a slight change in weather. It’s time to begin transitioning to lighter layers. Wear a ruqun or gongfu robe with light mantou jackets.
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Fabric: Wool and cotton layers are perfect for the transitional weather.
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Colors: Soft greens, pale blues, and spring-inspired colors reflect the subtle return of warmth.
Conclusion
From Spring’s soft fabrics to Winter’s heavy layers, Hanfu adapts beautifully to the 24 Solar Terms. Dressing in Hanfu according to the Solar Terms is not just about following fashion but also respecting the wisdom of the seasons. By understanding the relationship between Hanfu and nature’s cycles, you can experience a deeper connection to both the clothing you wear and the world around you. Whether you’re celebrating the warmth of Spring or the chill of Winter, Hanfu remains an elegant expression of cultural heritage that transcends time.