Hanfu is the traditional costume of the Han nationality in China, also known as Han Yiguan(汉衣冠), Han Zhuang(汉装), and Hua Fu(华服). From the accession of the Yellow Emperor (about 2698 BC) to the end of the Ming Dynasty (mid-17th century AD) for more than 4,000 years,centered around Chinese etiquette culture, gradually formed the Hanfu ceremonial attire system. Since the Yellow Emperor, Yao, Shun ruled the country, Chinese clothes has a basic form,after inheriting the Zhou Dynasty's etiquette to the Han Dynasty that formed a perfect clothing system and popularized to the people, and then through Confucianism and law, Chinese suit influenced the entire Han cultural, Hanfu got its name. Recently, there has been a revival of Hanfu,which is looking for Chinese-style things, but some friends don’t have a deep understanding of Hanfu, today we will make a brief introduction to the main forms of it.
1. Han Dynasty
The Han Dynasty carried out the policy of "dethroning all schools of thought and respecting Confucianism alone", and the Confucianism represented by Confucius and Mencius became orthodox. With Zhang Qian's departure to the Western Regions, the Silk Road was opened up, and Chinese culture was spread to the world. And it absorbs the foreign culture.
Although Shen Yi(深衣) was the mainstream of the Han Dynasty, influenced by the open cultural atmosphere at that time, two new styles of Hanfu emerged: the Ruqun(襦裙) and the Pao Shan(袍衫). At this point, clothing has integrated into the culture of multiple ethnic groups, and its types and styles have become more diverse. The main types include Guan(冠), Jin(巾), Mian(冕), Ji(笄), Ze(帻), Sheng(胜), Yi(衣), Qun(裙), Pao(袍),He(褐) etc.
2. Wei Jin Northern Southern Dynasty
The Yellow Turban Uprising(黄巾起义) led to the collapse of the Eastern Han Dynasty, greatly impacting the Confucian ethics during the feudal autocratic rule. People's thoughts were liberated from the shackles of Confucianism, and their independent personalities were developed.
The culture of this period was vibrant and diverse, with a reverence for nature. The elegant and graceful style of the Wei and Jin dynasties was also reflected in Hanfu, which pursued a prosperous and luxurious style. Loose fitting clothes were popular clothing during this period. Men wear clothes with exposed arms, draped over their shoulders, pursuing relaxation, naturalness, and casualness. The women's Za Ju(杂裾) is a formal dress for women, with a long skirt trailing the ground, large sleeves fluttering, and layered ribbons, showing an elegant and ethereal style.
Wei Jin style Hanfu is also the new favourite nowadays, if you like the feeling of fairy spirit, choosing a good-looking Wei Jin Hanfu is definitely the right choice.
View Wei Jin Dynasty Hanfu
3. Tang Dynasty
The Tang Dynasty was the peak of China's feudal society, with a prosperous economy, a vast and complete cultural system, a high level of development, and great openness. It has obvious characteristics of approaching the public, valuing the real world, and not sticking to ancient systems.The clothing of the Tang Dynasty inherited the system of previous dynasties and paved the way for future generations' clothing.The use of gauze(纱罗) as the material for women's clothing was a characteristic of Tang Dynasty clothing, especially the attire that didn’t wear underwear and only covered the body with light gauze, which was a pioneering achievement.
The development of Tang Dynasty clothing was an overall development. At this time, the design of clothing patterns tended to express freedom, fullness, magnificence, and roundness, which was demonstrated in the expression of shoes, hats and jewelry. It combines the characteristics of past clothing and adds luxurious elements on this basis, making the style of Hanfu reach a historical peak.
The vast majority of people who like hanfu have their first hanfu was the Tang Dynasty style,it's gorgeous appearance, loose and comfortable and doesn't require much in the way of body shape, so it's definitely the best choice for you to get into hanfu.
View Tang Dynasty Hanfu
4. Song Dynasty
The Song Dynasty was a highly developed dynasty in terms of economy and science and technology. Due to the rise of ‘Cheng Zhu Li Xue(程朱理学)’, Zhu Xi’s advocated the ‘survival of heavenly principles and the extinction of human desires’, which confined human individuality. Its ‘San Gang Wu Chang(三纲五常)’ also pushed the constraints on women.
Song Dynasty Hanfu continued the basic characteristics of the Tang Dynasty, but without the Tang's gaudy, became simple and rustic. Women like to wear a tube dress(抹胸), Guo Du(裹肚), with vent trousers(开叉外裤), or wear short skirts, waist skirt(腰裙), and occasionally also wear long skirts. No blouse outside the tube top(抹胸), only set of Sleeved over-dress(褙子) and no knot,which can be said to be the earliest example of wearing undergarment outside.
If you want to try a simple and conservative Chinese Hanfu set, a Song Dynasty Hanfu is definitely the best choice for your summer Hanfu.
View Song Dynasty Hanfu
5. Ming Dynasty
The Ming dynasty ended Mongol rule and reshaped manners and national pride, a period of culture saw unprecedented prosperity. In terms of dress, Zhu Yuanzhang fully restored the characteristics of Hanfu.
The Ming Dynasty Hanfu were divided into gowns and regular clothes.With gowns consisting of large-sleeved shirts(大袖衫), Feng Guan(凤冠), Xia Pi(霞帔), Sleeved over-dress(褙子)；and regular clothes such as Shan(衫), Ao(袄), Bi Jia(比甲), Shui Tianyi(水田衣) and skirts. The ‘red man green woman(红男绿女)’ Ming Dynasty costume is perfect for a Chinese wedding.
The Ming Dynasty Pi Ao(披袄) is the perfect Hanfu for the autumn and winter. Ming Hanfu not only suitable for the cold autumn and winter seasons, but also elegant in the summer months with the mamianqun set, that making it became perfect example of how Hanfu can be incorporated into everyday wear.
View Ming Dynasty Hanfu
6. Qing Dynasty
Qing Dynasty in the history of China's clothing is a relatively special historical period, it is mainly Manchu dress attire with the typical characteristics of the northern nomads.Thousands of years of wide robes and big sleeves to form a sharp contrast with the short and narrow sleeves, plain and simple solemn Manchu cheongsam.
women's cheongsam is upright wide lapel and big-sleeved robe, skirt hem to calf and outside the embroidered pattern. Qing clothes were save materials, production, easy to wear for its characteristics, that was beautiful and generous style and pay attention to the decoration, collar, sleeve head, lapel are embroidered with different colours of the lace, wear up proportional and slim, graceful and elegant. When it is cold, they add a waistcoat on the outside of the robe, Which a short coat with slits and a lapel, taht is long enough to reach the navel.
Manchu cheongsam is also a good choice for experiencing cultural customs.